Restoring the enamel of cast iron bathtubs with your own hands

Cast iron bathtub - a thing almost eternal. Cast iron is one of the very first materials that began to be used for the production of sanitary equipment. Cast iron plumbing is highly wear-resistant and lasts for decades. That is why cast iron sanitary fixtures are still preferred in public bathrooms with a large flow of users.

A cast iron bathtub installed in an apartment, after many years of use, is still as strong and stable. The only thing that comes in disrepair is the enamel coating. Even with very careful handling, after some time chipping, scratches and indelible stains appear on the enamel.

Usually in this case there is a question of replacing the product. But is it worth changing a quality cast-iron bathtub, which can serve for decades, for a new fixture of dubious quality? We suggest you try to restore the enamel coating by your own forces. It will cost significantly cheaper than buying a new bathtub, and the result may exceed all your expectations.

Acrylic liner. The easiest way to upgrade a cast iron bathtub is to purchase an acrylic bathtub insert. The cost is similar to buying a new cast-iron bath, but you don't have to think about how to dismantle and where to put the old bath and install a new one. Acrylic bathtub insert is made to order, and you can install it on the tub yourself - the manufacturers will tell you all the details of installation.

The acrylic bathtub insert consists of two layers: plastic, which is responsible for the elasticity of the insert, and acrylic, which provides rigidity and excellent performance characteristics of the product. Acrylic insert is pleasant to the touch, it does not slip, retains heat well and is easy to clean. It should be noted that the acrylic bath insert can be ordered only for a standard size and shape bathtub.

Stacryl. Acrylic for enamel restoration is also used in the technology of "poured bathtub". It involves applying a layer of liquid acrylic, called "stacryl", to the prepared surface of the old bathtub. Restoring the enamel with this method can be done by yourself from start to finish, you only need to buy the necessary materials.

Acrylic is poured around the edges of the tub, moving along the perimeter. The liquid flows from the sides to the walls and gradually fills the bottom. Uneven and unfilled areas are smoothed with a rubber spatula. The main thing is to do everything quickly, before the compound begins to set. The technology is quite complex and requires some experience, but everyone who is even slightly familiar with the repair and decoration works can cope with it. Restored in this way the bath will have all the advantages of acrylic baths.

Enameling. This method is the most budgetary, since the components required for the preparation of the enamel composition, are cheaper than liquid acrylic, and even less so - acrylic bath insert. There are two active ingredients in the enamel composition: the base and the hardener. For them to react, it is necessary to heat the mixture to a temperature above room temperature. Read more about the technology of enameling a cast iron bathtub below.

Regardless of the method of renewing a cast iron bathtub, the first thing to do, before you begin the main work, is to prepare the surface. Preparation includes:

Eliminating rust stains. Rust is formed as a result of oxidation of metals. Make the traces of oxidation invisible can be made by treating the contaminated areas with acid (acetic or oxalic acid will do for this purpose). It is necessary to pour the diluted acid on the rusty spots and leave for half an hour. If after washing the acid the rust is not completely removed, the remnants can simply be scraped off with a stiff brush. After that, the bathtub should be thoroughly washed with hot water and an ordinary cleaner.

Sanding. When all the dirt is removed from the bathtub, the surface should be well smoothed. The method of grinding depends on what tools you have at hand. It is most convenient to do it with a grinder, but also a drill with a special nozzle or sandpaper will do. When finished, rinse the tub with warm water.

Grouting. Even after careful treatment of the surface on the font, there are still dents, deep scratches, chips and cracks that can not be grinded. From defects of this kind we get rid of with putty and spatula. When the putty dries, it must be sanded again, so that the surface of the bathtub was absolutely flat.

Degreasing. At the final stage of preparation, the surface of the font should be degreased. You can use special cleaners or an alcoholic solution, soda, solvent and other improvised means.

• Before you begin, close the water for safety. Dismantle the drainage system, clean and dry the drainage hole. Place a small basin or tray under the drain, in which the enamel will flow down.
• Now, the pre-prepared surface of the bathtub, you need to primer. Many manufacturers of bath enamel also produce a primer mixture, so if possible, it is recommended to buy the enamel and primer of the same brand. There is also enamel, which can be used as a primer (the methods of application are usually listed on the packaging). After the primer layer dries, you can start enameling.
• Mix the components for enameling in the proportions recommended by the manufacturer. In addition to the base and hardener, tints can be added to the enamel mixture if you wish to achieve a specific shade of enamel.
• Apply the enamel with a wide brush or roller. Be careful with the brush or roller and move it quickly and precisely. Enamel is not an oil paint or wallpaper glue, it dries very quickly.
• When coating the surface of the bathtub with enamel, spread the compound from top to bottom, from the rim to the bottom. Move around the perimeter of the tub, enameling sector by sector. After the first layer of enamel has cured, apply the next layer in the same manner.
• The enamel will be completely dry in 3 days at the earliest. If you have applied several coats, the drying may take a week. During this time, the bath should not be used. When the coating hardens, put the drain back in place.

• Quality materials for bath enameling produce both domestic and foreign manufacturers. Among the enamels from Russian manufacturers, the complexes "Svetlana" and "Aqua-Color" receive good reviews. Of the foreign enamel mixtures, it is worth noting "Tikkurila Reaflex 50", which can also be used as a primer.
• While the enamel is drying, you should not perform any construction work in the bathroom. Finishing materials, dust and dirt that got on the fresh coating and will remain on it indelible stains. In addition, during the drying time of the enamel, the bathroom must be constantly ventilated. If the room will remain wet, the enamel may crack.
• For the coating to be more durable and last as long as possible, apply more than two coats of enamel. Ideally, the number of coats should be 3 to 5. This type of coating will last for more than 10 years. When it is no longer useful, the enameling procedure can be repeated.

Extend the life of the new coating can be achieved by following a few basic rules for the operation of an enameled bathtub:

• Use only mild, gentle detergents that do not contain abrasives to wash the sanitary ware. Choose a soft sponge or cloth, avoid hard brushes (especially metal ones).
• If you are in the habit of soaking your laundry in the bathtub, never pour bleach or other aggressive cleaning agents into it.
• Do not expose your bath enamel to sudden temperature changes: do not alternately pour boiling and cold water. Sharp changes in water temperature may cause cracks on the surface of the bath.
• Wash with care in an enamel bathtub. Try not to drop heavy bubbles of shampoo into it, do not throw the shower head on the bottom of the tub.